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Precocity
(years to bear first
crops)
Many of us are not in a hurry to
taste those first crops of fruit or nuts, maybe because we already have
bearing trees or because we have many other trees that have been planted
in succession that, each year, surprise us with a new crop of fruits.
But also, many of us are in a hurry, the information on this page can
help you bring your trees to bear a decade earlier in some parts of the
country:
Factors that
delay bearing of first crops:
ROOT COMPETITION: with nearby tree. When a fruit tree's root
zone (usually directly under the outermost edge of leaves, or drip line)
overlaps the root zone of another tree, even
on one side, especially one that is larger,
fruiting is delayed significantly.
LIMITED SUNLIGHT: Fruit set is determined
in June of the previous year, leaves near the fruiting spurs have to
have plenty of light at that time so that a bloom will set the next
spring. If your tree is in a shaded area, (6 hours is minimum, but 12
or more is ideal, and necessary for fruits that ripen later in the season
such as Ashmead's Kernel and Golden Russet
apples), it may take significantly more time to bear its first crops.
EXCESSIVE GROWTH: Too much Nitrogen or pruning can stimulate
vigorous and vertical growth, two conditions
that do not favor fruiting. Minor pruning should not cause significant
delays to bearing.
Factors that hasten bearing:
EARLY BEARING VARIETIES:
Even on standard
rootstocks some fruits bear young such as:
Judging
from repeated experience on different rootstocks, these apple varieties
bear extremly young on standard roots, even in crowded conditions,
these have born in less that 4 years, sometimes in their second growing
season:
Rosybloom, September
Ruby, Heyer 12 and 20, Zestar, Norland, Westland, Norlove, Yellow
Ingestrie
Based on a few experiences, these seem also to bear extremely
young: Dauphin, Centennial, Carlos Queen, Foxwhelp
The following usually bear very late unless on rootstocks that
induce early bearing: State Fair, Cinnamon Spice, Wolf River
TOTAL SUMMER HEAT: S WI has plenty of summer heat to bring trees
to bearing their first crops. However, N WI has about 1/3 the summer
heat as S WI and can delay bearing.
IRRIGATION: in early years, especially year one, especially
the first month and until the beginning of July.
Don't forget to form a basin around the tree to catch water if in a
droughty site.
WEEDING: in early years and in later years for dwarf stock.
MANURE in poor or moderate soil in the fall after leaves drop.
Apply a two to four inch layer in a circle six inches to 1 foot wide
under the drip line. apply fresh manure in the fall, or aged manure
in the spring. This is recommended only to
help establish the tree in its first couple years, afterwards, too much
manure could delay fruiting and also decrease flavor in fruit and yield.
OTHER ORGANIC MATTER: If you have soil that is very low in organic
matter, such as nearly pure sand, a thick layer of sawdust helps greatly.
Compost, leaves, wood chips, also can mean the difference in years of
wait to bearing age. (Don't apply more than a 3" layer of woodchips
as this can prevent water from being absorbed).
ROOTSTOCK: In Southern WI, rootstocks that hasten bearing usually
means a dwarfing rootstock but can also mean Bud
118 which bears extremely young (but produces a very large tree
in S WI unless cropped heavily when young, stunting growth).
In N WI dwarfing rootstocks may hasten bearing as long
as all, or nearly all of the above conditions are ideal or close to
ideal.
However, I have some Honeycrisps and Sweet 16's on
dwarfing rootstock- P 22, (an extremely early bearing rootstock
normally), that have yet to bear in N WI after 12 years, but they
also have root competition and low sunlight.
At another site several miles away, in N WI, various apples on dwarfing
stock normally take 14 years to bear, but again, these were not in
ideal conditions: low sunlight, six hours per day or so. These trees
were mulched, watered, and weeded very well though but I believe the
combination of low sunlight and low summer heat in N WI are to blame
for the extra nine years wait to bear crops. At a nearby site, apples
normally bear in 5 years on an open sunny site.
In conditions that are less than ideal (weeds, low sunlight, poor soil,
root competition), standards are almost always the better
choice in the far north. They can be kept to a reasonable height by
pruning.
If you have extremely sandy soil, a vigorous drought tolerant
stock may be your best bet, such as ranetka standard rootstock
or Bud 118. Bud 118 hastens bearing to such a degree that
even varieties grafted to it, that are normally late to bear in the
south, should bear within 5 years in the north. Antonovka
standard rootstock does not hasten bearing in dry soil but it does better
in heavier soil conditions. In very heavy soil, a dwarf
rootstock (such as Bud 9) might be the best choice planted
on a mound above the soil level. (Be sure to plant your trees where
they can take advantage of full sun though or no matter the rootstock,
you will be in for a long wait to first crops.)
The most versatile rootsock is a vigorous root with a dwarfing
interstem, such a tree can compete in poor soil, bear earlier,
be free standing, and small in size.Such interstems as Bud9/antonovka,
or Bud9/111, or Bud9/Bud118 are all choices
that offer these qualities.
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